Thursday, March 25, 2021

San Antonio: A Vibrant & Historical City

No Texas blog is complete without an entry on the Alamo, Texas's enduring shrine of its 1836 revolution. My wife and I traveled to San Antonio in November 2020, and thoroughly enjoyed the lively cultural atmosphere we experienced there. This was our second visit to the city; we had once stayed for a couple of nights at the Holiday Inn Express-downtown San Antonio (which used to be the city's former jail) in the fall of 2016. This time, we walked around the Alamo, enjoyed ice cream and a delicious all-you-can-eat steak buffet, and were mesmerized at a wonderful trip down the famous River Walk (at night!).

The Alamo Chapel. This building, where Crockett made his last stand, was not entirely destroyed following the 1836 battle and was later restored as a storehouse by Union soldiers in the 1845 annexation of Texas. The gently curved "hump" atop of the chapel was added during the 1845 restoration.


The Texas Historical Commission and other local historical groups have done a splendid job at preserving the Alamo (although the Mexican forces burned most of the military defenses after their victory in 1836). The iconic chapel still exists and is eerily beautiful when you approach it. This was the place where the distinguished rifleman and Tennessee politician Davy Crockett made his last stand, where reports say that when he was unable to load his rifle, he swung his rifle above his head and fought hand-to-hand until he perished, screaming at the top of his lungs. The church was also the haven for the defenders' wives and young children. Susanna Dickinson, spouse of volunteer Almaron Dickinson, and her infant daughter huddled with several other families in one of the backrooms of the church when the assault began. Her husband's last words echoed the terror that the defenders faced when Mexican forces finally breached the walls during the third assault: "Great God, Sue, the Mexicans are inside our walls! If they spare you, save my child." Her husband, along with the other 130-ish Alamo defenders died in the fiercely-fought battle. Susanna and her daughter were allowed to leave the ruined complex, where they traveled to Gonzales with Texian slave Joe to tell the news of the defeat to General Sam Houston. Houston would later obtain revenge and defeat the Mexican Army at the Battle of San Jacinto on April 21, 1836.

The Long Barracks, where heavy fighting ensured during the morning assault, also survived.


The Long Barracks at the Alamo is also still intact. Prior to the assault (which happened in the early morning hours on March 6, 1836), the Texan defenders dug a ditch in the Long Barracks, which would serve as their last line of defense during the battle. Heavy hand-to-hand fighting occurred in the Long Barracks, as the defenders locked arms with their foes, growled and grunted, and tried to repeal the advancing enemy. Yet, their numbers were overwhelmed and they were brutally killed. Blood-curling screams filled the morning air. Blood, sweat, and tears were shed that day. After the attack, which left more than 600 Mexican soldiers killed or wounded, General Antonio Lopez de Santa Anna's forces inspected each corpse, bayoneting any body that moved. The Mexican soldiers continued to shoot at the deceased, even hours after the battle. It was a gruesome, horrific event, but the heroic actions of the Alamo defenders (including Crockett, James Bowie, and William B. Travis) earned a place in Texas public memory. I admired the size of the large cannon they had on display at complex. The 18-pounder cannon was the Alamo's largest; the cannon would later be turned on the Texan defenses when the defenders forgot to spike the weapons after retreating to the Long Barracks. The complex also boosts several bronze statues of some of the defenders (which I enjoyed posing in front of).

A cannon on display at the Alamo.


My wife and I also took a boat trip on the River Walk, a lovely way to end a great evening. Our tour guide was fantastic, and briefly explained the history of San Antonio (including Native and Hispanic contributions to the growing city) before discussing the historical/economic purposes of each building on the River Walk. There was one building (I believe a hotel) that was built in separate pods overseas and then shipped to the United States and glued together within a year. The River Walk was designed by local architect Robert Hugman and built in the downtown area following a disastrous flood along the San Antonio River in September 1921 (51 lives were lost). The Works Progress Administration, a New Deal program, provided crucial 'beautifying' funding in 1939, which resulted in the construction of 17,000 feet of walkways, twenty bridges and extensive plantings. This meant that people could easily access all points of interest along the River Walk, including the growing number of eateries that were sprouting on the river. The River Walk was expanded in 1981 when the new Hyatt Regency San Antonio hotel needed another pedestrian connector that linked Alamo Plaza to the River Walk. Today, the River Walk not only eliminates all risks of flooding in the city, but also adds a cultural and historical flair to an already-vibrant city.

San Antonio is named in honor of Anthony of Padua, a Portuguese Catholic priest who was known for his powerful preaching, expert knowledge of scripture, and unwavering love and devotion to the sick and the poor.

The Bexar County Courthouse in San Antonio is a handsome building. It reminds me of the red-brick courthouse in the center of Dallas.

My wife Carly struggles to stand next to one of the largest cannon at the Alamo. This cannon was used by the Mexican Army during the 1836 Texas Revolution.

The River Walk is a peaceful, beautiful attraction in San Antonio- I highly recommend taking a boat trip on the River Walk (especially at night when the river is lit with colorful lights).

Lucky the Lion, TAMUC's mascot, poses in front of the David Crockett statue.

A statue of Susanna Dickinson and her infant daughter. Dickinson, who lost her husband during the battle, survived and told the story of the brave defenders. After she told Houston about the Alamo's fall, the Texas Army general advised all citizens to evacuate, beginning the Runaway Scrape.

I'm standing in front of a statue of William B. Travis, a 26-year old lieutenant colonel and defender of the Alamo. Travis escaped to Texas to avoid arrest and a mounting debt.


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